Make Your Existing or Future Home a Greener Place to Live

THE RIGHT SITE

• A site with smart landscaping is important to help make your home comfortable, affordable and attractive.
• Water-efficient bermuda or buffalo grass is planted in sunny areas.
• Plants, shrubs and trees that grow successfully in Northern California.
• Gutters and downspouts direct water away from house.
• An irrigation system conserves water by using devices such as manual flow-control valves, a rain shut-off, and a timer with multiple start times.

THE RIGHT DESIGN

• Comfort and economy is possible when a house is designed for its site and climate.
• Minimal Solar Heat Gain:
• Longest walls face north and south.
• Most windows face north and south.
• Most windows are shaded on the outside by overhangs, covered porches, awnings, trees, trellises, or pergolas.
• Garage and least-used rooms are positioned on west side as buffers from the west sun.
• Maximum Ventilation:
• Most windows are operable and positioned for cross breezes.
• Most rooms have windows on two walls.
• High, centrally-located, operable windows enable hot air to move up and vent to the outside.

THE RIGHT EXTERIOR

Cool Shell and Attic:

• Light colored paint, siding, and roofing are used.
• A continuous vent strip runs underneath the roof overhang to let air into the attic.
• Roof ridge has a continuous strip of venting or several passive vents close to the ridge.
• Attic insulation does not block air flow path between roof overhang vents and ridge vents.
• Attic has a radiant barrier below the roof decking or between the rafters (looks like aluminum foil). Radiant barrier is especially effective when ductwork is in the attic.

Minimum Maintenance:

• Exterior wall material is low maintenance (brick, stone, stucco, cement board).
• Roof has forty-year life (metal or tile).
• Decks are made of materials that have at least a 10-year life (not solid wood).

Maximum Insulation:

• Insulation is at least 10 inches deep and evenly distributed
• Wall insulation is a type that fills every nook and cranny, such as wet-blown cellulose.

Optimal Windows:

• Unshaded windows have solar screens or low-e glass (except on the north side).
• Window frames are wood, vinyl or fiberglass.

THE RIGHT INTERIOR

Using the right materials can improve indoor air quality and increase comfort. Choosing energy efficient appliances will save you money.

Healthy Materials:

• Flooring is mostly a hard surface, such as concrete, tile or wood.
• Other flooring materials are natural wool, jute, sea grass, cork or true linoleum.
• No vinyl wallpaper is used in the home.
• Bath has exhaust fan vented to outside.
• Cook top has exhaust fan vented to outside.
• Laundry/utility room has exhaust fan vented to outside.

Efficient Appliances and Lights:

• Water heating has a 10-year warranty.
• An Energy Guide Label that indicates the appliance is in the top 25% of the efficiency scale.
• Exterior lights have light and motion detectors to conserve energy.

Efficient Heating and Cooling:

• Ceiling fans in all major rooms.
• Home has a whole-house fan to exhaust heat.
• Home has a programmable thermostat.
• Home has an A/C with a cooling efficiency is 12.0 SEER or higher.

Well-sealed Ducts:

• Ducts have been pressure-tested for leaks by a qualified technician. Remember, most houses lose about 25% of conditioned air due to leaky ducts. Leaks cause air quality and safety problems, too.

Air Filters:

• The filter is accessible and easy to change.
• The system has a 6″ wide filter cabinet with pleated-media or electronic filter (not electrostatic).

THE RIGHT ECONOMY

• Using local businesses and products keeps the local economy healthy, while reducing the affects of transportation on air quality.
• Regional materials of local artists and artisans are used for home items.

THE RIGHT LIFESTYLE

• The right location of your home improves your quality of life.
• The home is conveniently located for activities, such as work, school, entertainment, recreation, and public transportation.
• Traffic allows safe walking and biking.

You can live in a home that is healthier, more comfortable, less expensive and lasts longer—basically, a happier home!  It’s a choice and a smart way to make a positive difference in the world. “Greening” your home  is also a strong selling attribute of homes in Marin.

So, want to do something simple, cheap and incredibly important for our environment?   This bright idea is just hanging around your home–cut your electricity consumption.  If we decrease our electrical usage by 50%, we’ll basically cut our emissions from coal by 50%.

And, where does most of our electricity usage come from? …right in our homes.  Sixty six percent of electricity generated is used for heating, cooling, and lighting buildings.  It’s sobering to think that 1/3 of the world’s population still has no access to electricity, so cutting the US consumption will make a significant difference in decreasing the world’s greenhouse emissions.

First, let’s see how bright your energy knowledge bulb is…

True or False?

1. Most of your washing machine’s energy is used just to heat the water.

2. Your mom was wrong, opening the refrigerator door uses very little of it’s energy usage.

3. Most of the energy of the electricity used to power home electronics is consumed while the products are off.

4. Standard light bulbs produce more heat than light as they did in the past.

5. Solar is not the best energy source for electricity.

(Answers at end of article)

WHAT CAN YOU DO?

REFRIGERATOR–GET A NEW ONE

Consider buying a new refrigerator.   In most places in the US, the fridge is the 2nd largest user of electricity, right after air conditioning.  So here in Marin, where air conditioning is often provided free, it’s the first.   With most appliances you save energy by using them less, but you can’t do that very well with your fridge. The main way to save money with this appliance is to use an efficient model. New refrigerators aren’t just a little more efficient, they’re incredibly more efficient. A 1986-era fridge uses 1400 kWh a year, while a post-2001 fridge uses only 500 kWh — a 64% savings.

WASHER–USE COLD WATER, FRONT LOADING

Washing your clothes in hot water instead of cold water for a year, wastes more electricity than leaving the refrigerator door open 24 hours a day for a year! Front-loading washers use 40-75% less water and 30-85% less energy than typical top-loaders.

ENERGY STAR

So, here’s a cool story about California.  Back in 1976 California set a maximum amount of energy (1400 kilowatt hours per year) use for 18 -cubic foot fridges,  over the protests of appliance manufacturers.   After they finished protesting, appliance producers met the standard easily, and on time. Because California represented such a large share of the market, and the necessary improvements were so minimal, the appliance manufacturers applied that standard to their entire lines. California kept demanding more efficiency.  Now, the criteria is 500 kWh….wow!  So, not only are we doing our part by living in a cool state,  we can do even more by picking Energy Star, government rated low kWh usage appliances.

LIGHT BULBS

Compact fluorescent bulbs, or CFLS, use 75 % less energy, last six times longer, generate less heat and reduce energy costs associated with cooling as compared to incandescent bulbs.  Each bulb will save $30 or more in energy cost over its lifetime compared to standard bulbs.

BELIEVE

Let your light shine.  Environmentalist Alex Steffen said, “Optimism is a political act. Those who benefit in the status quo are perfectly happy for us to think nothing is going to get any better.  In fact, these days, cynicism is obedience.”  So, believe each step you take, each bit of electricity you don’t use, will make a difference.  Talking about believing, check out this cool link:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=42E2fAWM6rA

Answers to quiz:   All TRUE….

1. 90% of a washer’s electrical consumption is to heat water.

2. Opening your refrigerator door may be irritating, but it only uses about 2% of it’s normal energy usage.

3. According to the Department of Energy, 75% of the electricity used to power home electronics are consumed while the products are turned off. It’s called a “Phantom Load”. Using power strips and sleep mode elevates this.

4. Incandescent light bulbs still produce more heat than light.

5. The best energy is the one you never use.

The California Real Estate Inspection Association (CREIA) advises homeowners and home sellers to consider a “physical home check up” to ensure that they are fully informed on the current conditions and components of their home. A home that has not been recently inspected may have undiscovered, minor or major maintenance items that could lead to a significant financial expense to correct or even replace if not discovered.

“Seller shall make the property available for all buyer investigations. Seller shall have water, gas, electricity and all operable pilot lights on for Buyer’s investigations and through the date possession is made available to Buyer.” (Excerpt from: Paragraph 9B of the California Association of Realtors® California Residential Purchase Agreement)

Having everything ready for the inspection can prevent unnecessary delays. For liability reasons home inspectors do not move personal belongings. Most home inspectors will charge an additional fee if they must return to the property to inspect item which were not accessible.

The seller should verify that:

• All utilities are on
• Pilot lights are lit (The gas provider will usually light pilots at no cost to the owner)
• Attic access is clear of clothing or stored items
• Crawl space entrances are not blocked or nailed in place
• Water heaters are accessible
• Furnaces are accessible
• Sinks, showers and bathtubs are clear of dishes or personal items
• Built-in appliances are free of stored items and can be operated
• Electrical panels are accessible and not locked (Electrical sub-panels inside the home are often painted and removing the cover will mar the finish. The seller’s agent should ask the seller to grant permission to the inspector to remove the panel cover to look for life/safety issues)
• Areas or items to be inspected are freely accessible
• Pets are secured (Unsecured animals should be removed from the property or secured in an area that will not need to be inspected if the seller (or occupant) will not be present)                                                                                                                                                                                                    Click here for the printable version of Preparing for a Home Inspection Checklist.

Home constructed prior to 1965 in the United States may still be equipped with the original style two pin ungrounded outlets. Ungrounded receptacles are less safe than modern grounded system three-pin receptacles. If current leaks to metal, unintended current paths in appliances, or the house systems, the energized component or appliance can increase the risk of electrical shock and fire. A grounded electrical system and receptacles provides increased protection against electric shocks, fire, and also decreases the risk of damage to appliances in case of a ground fault-current leaking outside the intended path.

The ungrounded two-pin receptacles are outdated by modern standards, and do not provide a path for static electricity for modern computerized components and most surge protectors will not work on two pin receptacles. Some homeowners use a two to three pin adaptor known as “cheater plug” as a quick alternative to installing grounded receptacles. However, this does not provide complete protection similar to properly installed grounded outlets. Another common layperson practice is replacing ungrounded  tow-pin receptacles with modern receptacles that have a third slot for the ground pin, but with no equipment grounding conductor connected to the new receptacle. This displays a false indicator of safety and does not provide adequate protection from the risk of electrical shocks and fire.

Upgrading the electrical system will not only bring it close to modern only bring it closer to modern safety standards but will of an older home. Some of the other measures you can take to properly ground your receptacles include the following:

Installing three-pin receptacles and completely re-wire the electrical system so that a path to the source via equipment grounding conductor is provided to the receptacle.

Installing GFCI’s (ground-fault circuit interrupters) in the home. These three-pin devices can be installed in place of two pin receptacles a the receptacle itself of upstream. GFCI’s will provide additional protection against electric shocks even if you do not re-wire your home. If not grounded, GFCI devices and the protected receptacles are required to be labeled “no equipment ground.” These labels normally come with the devices. Note that ungrounded three-pin GFCI receptacles do not provide a path for static electricity or surge protectors. Be sure to utilize devices designed for two-wire ungrounded systems.

CAUTION!

Homeowners should never attempt to modify electrical wiring of the home themselves if there is any question regarding proper procedures or parts. Electrical work should only be done by qualified and licensed electricians, and in some cases local regulation requires it. Any attempt to “ground” the receptacles to a grounding electrode rod, the neutral conductor, or metallic water line can be dangerous. Most any electrical modification will require that you obtain a municipal permit from your local building and safely department, and have an inspection by the municipal inspector.

Garage vehicle doors are a large moving object and it is essential that they be well maintained and in good working condition. Regular maintenance of your garage doors not only extends the life of the garage door but also ensures reliable, quiet, and safe operation of the door. Many homeowners opt for regular inspection and maintenance of vehicle doors by a qualified professional due to their size and complexity. Here are some of the important steps that you can take to keep your garage doors in good working condition.

1. Annually, lubricate opener chain or screw with a minimal amount of white lithium grease. This will extend the life of both the opener and the chain. Be sure to check the owner’s manual as some door opener chains do not require lubrication.
2. Use a penetrating lubricant or oil to coat the overhead torsion springs mounted above the roller tracks. Coating torsion springs with cleaner or lubricant helps prevent corrosion of the springs.
3. Consider replacing the weather seal of the garage door bottom and sides if it has become worn or brittle. Remove old seal with a flat pry bar and place a new one in its place. Note there are differing connection methods for door seals so be sure to purchase the correct seal for your door.
4. Visually inspect nylon rollers of the garage door for cracks, chips, or missing rollers. On steel rollers, wear and tear of the bearings would indicate whether it would need replacement, usually they will be out of camber if falling. You can purchase replacement rollers from most hardware stores. Installing the replacement rollers is not extremely difficult. Just remove and reinstall the roller bracket to install the new rollers, one at a time.
5. You can test the balance of your door by ensuring that it holds halfway open without assistance. Disengage the electric opener first if one exists. If the door is not balanced, it will result in wear and tear of the garage door and opener. You can contact a garage door professional to balance the garage door if it does not stay in position when half open, which could indicate a detective spring or other issue.
6. You might consider installing a lift handle on both sides of the garage door if sectional type. When installed, you are less likely to place your fingers between sections to lift the garage door and avoid pinching.

A fireplace can provide warmth to a room and can increase aesthetic appeal. Here are some tips to ensure that your fireplace remains in good working condition and keeps burning safety.

1. Hire a professional to sweep the chimney at least once a year if you use your fireplace often. Every 3-5 years if the unit is used occasionally will suffice.
2. Regularly inspect the cap located on the chimney. You can usually do this from the ground with binoculars. The cap keeps rain and animals out of the chimney. You should calla professional to replace the chimney cap if necessary.
3. Inspect the interior of the fireplace for build-up of soot and creosote. Soot and creosote accumulates inside the chimney due to the normal process of burning  wood. They are flammable and therefore should be swept clean as soon as they build up inside the fireplace. Also check the firebox for any cracks or deteriorated components and have them repaired quickly. A chimney sweep can generally provide any fireplace services other than re-building the entire unit.
4. Consider using dry hardwoods like oak, ash, and birth in the fireplace. These hardwoods burn long and hot and tend to produce less soot and creosote.
5. If your chimney is older and make of brick consider installing a stainless steel liner in the fireplace chimney  that has the ability to withstand high temperatures. A chimney sweep can assist with determining the proper type and material.
6. Consider installing heat resistant glass doors to help prevent heat loss from the house. You can also add a  blower that will help direct heat into the room instead of most of it going up the chimney.
7. Adding the glass door also helps prevent hot embers from entering the room. Keep the glass door clean using fireplace glass cleaner and a paper towel.
8. Regularly clean the interior of the fireplace of ash with a shovel then with a vacuum. Wear gloves and a dust mask when cleaning the fireplace.
9. Don’t store fuel close to the fireplace where it might ignite. Keep children away from solid fuel fireplaces and gas appliances.