Home constructed prior to 1965 in the United States may still be equipped with the original style two pin ungrounded outlets. Ungrounded receptacles are less safe than modern grounded system three-pin receptacles. If current leaks to metal, unintended current paths in appliances, or the house systems, the energized component or appliance can increase the risk of electrical shock and fire. A grounded electrical system and receptacles provides increased protection against electric shocks, fire, and also decreases the risk of damage to appliances in case of a ground fault-current leaking outside the intended path.

The ungrounded two-pin receptacles are outdated by modern standards, and do not provide a path for static electricity for modern computerized components and most surge protectors will not work on two pin receptacles. Some homeowners use a two to three pin adaptor known as “cheater plug” as a quick alternative to installing grounded receptacles. However, this does not provide complete protection similar to properly installed grounded outlets. Another common layperson practice is replacing ungrounded  tow-pin receptacles with modern receptacles that have a third slot for the ground pin, but with no equipment grounding conductor connected to the new receptacle. This displays a false indicator of safety and does not provide adequate protection from the risk of electrical shocks and fire.

Upgrading the electrical system will not only bring it close to modern only bring it closer to modern safety standards but will of an older home. Some of the other measures you can take to properly ground your receptacles include the following:

Installing three-pin receptacles and completely re-wire the electrical system so that a path to the source via equipment grounding conductor is provided to the receptacle.

Installing GFCI’s (ground-fault circuit interrupters) in the home. These three-pin devices can be installed in place of two pin receptacles a the receptacle itself of upstream. GFCI’s will provide additional protection against electric shocks even if you do not re-wire your home. If not grounded, GFCI devices and the protected receptacles are required to be labeled “no equipment ground.” These labels normally come with the devices. Note that ungrounded three-pin GFCI receptacles do not provide a path for static electricity or surge protectors. Be sure to utilize devices designed for two-wire ungrounded systems.

CAUTION!

Homeowners should never attempt to modify electrical wiring of the home themselves if there is any question regarding proper procedures or parts. Electrical work should only be done by qualified and licensed electricians, and in some cases local regulation requires it. Any attempt to “ground” the receptacles to a grounding electrode rod, the neutral conductor, or metallic water line can be dangerous. Most any electrical modification will require that you obtain a municipal permit from your local building and safely department, and have an inspection by the municipal inspector.

Garage vehicle doors are a large moving object and it is essential that they be well maintained and in good working condition. Regular maintenance of your garage doors not only extends the life of the garage door but also ensures reliable, quiet, and safe operation of the door. Many homeowners opt for regular inspection and maintenance of vehicle doors by a qualified professional due to their size and complexity. Here are some of the important steps that you can take to keep your garage doors in good working condition.

1. Annually, lubricate opener chain or screw with a minimal amount of white lithium grease. This will extend the life of both the opener and the chain. Be sure to check the owner’s manual as some door opener chains do not require lubrication.
2. Use a penetrating lubricant or oil to coat the overhead torsion springs mounted above the roller tracks. Coating torsion springs with cleaner or lubricant helps prevent corrosion of the springs.
3. Consider replacing the weather seal of the garage door bottom and sides if it has become worn or brittle. Remove old seal with a flat pry bar and place a new one in its place. Note there are differing connection methods for door seals so be sure to purchase the correct seal for your door.
4. Visually inspect nylon rollers of the garage door for cracks, chips, or missing rollers. On steel rollers, wear and tear of the bearings would indicate whether it would need replacement, usually they will be out of camber if falling. You can purchase replacement rollers from most hardware stores. Installing the replacement rollers is not extremely difficult. Just remove and reinstall the roller bracket to install the new rollers, one at a time.
5. You can test the balance of your door by ensuring that it holds halfway open without assistance. Disengage the electric opener first if one exists. If the door is not balanced, it will result in wear and tear of the garage door and opener. You can contact a garage door professional to balance the garage door if it does not stay in position when half open, which could indicate a detective spring or other issue.
6. You might consider installing a lift handle on both sides of the garage door if sectional type. When installed, you are less likely to place your fingers between sections to lift the garage door and avoid pinching.

A fireplace can provide warmth to a room and can increase aesthetic appeal. Here are some tips to ensure that your fireplace remains in good working condition and keeps burning safety.

1. Hire a professional to sweep the chimney at least once a year if you use your fireplace often. Every 3-5 years if the unit is used occasionally will suffice.
2. Regularly inspect the cap located on the chimney. You can usually do this from the ground with binoculars. The cap keeps rain and animals out of the chimney. You should calla professional to replace the chimney cap if necessary.
3. Inspect the interior of the fireplace for build-up of soot and creosote. Soot and creosote accumulates inside the chimney due to the normal process of burning  wood. They are flammable and therefore should be swept clean as soon as they build up inside the fireplace. Also check the firebox for any cracks or deteriorated components and have them repaired quickly. A chimney sweep can generally provide any fireplace services other than re-building the entire unit.
4. Consider using dry hardwoods like oak, ash, and birth in the fireplace. These hardwoods burn long and hot and tend to produce less soot and creosote.
5. If your chimney is older and make of brick consider installing a stainless steel liner in the fireplace chimney  that has the ability to withstand high temperatures. A chimney sweep can assist with determining the proper type and material.
6. Consider installing heat resistant glass doors to help prevent heat loss from the house. You can also add a  blower that will help direct heat into the room instead of most of it going up the chimney.
7. Adding the glass door also helps prevent hot embers from entering the room. Keep the glass door clean using fireplace glass cleaner and a paper towel.
8. Regularly clean the interior of the fireplace of ash with a shovel then with a vacuum. Wear gloves and a dust mask when cleaning the fireplace.
9. Don’t store fuel close to the fireplace where it might ignite. Keep children away from solid fuel fireplaces and gas appliances.

Old-school ribbed or flexible ducts are a bad idea. Flex hose can tear on nails or become compressed, kinked, or bent. It’s also dangerous : in dryer exhaust ducts, lint can collect inside the ribbing and cause a fire.

The best exhaust paths are made using solid, smooth ducting. Ideally, you want metal ducting that vents directly to the outside in as short and straight a run as possible. That way, the fan will work efficiently. If the exhaust duct has to make a lot of turns or go a long distance, you may need a fan with a larger capacity. I ducts run through unheated spaces, make sure the ducts are insulated and securely sealed at every seam. Without this, the cold air surrounding the ductwork will cause condensation and leaks.

Clothes dryer have an exhaust duct that lets the warm, moist air and lint from the dryer escape to the outside of the home (never vent it into an attic or crawl space –guaranteed mold and damage). The problem is the exhaust duct gets clogged. The lever of clogging varies between types of dryers and manufacturers, and depends on how often the duct is cleaned. (You do clean your dryer exhaust duct, right? I recommend it at least once a year) If your get a blockage, you’ve got a risky situation. When hot exhaust passes through a duct caked with all those bits of lint, it could end up triggering a house fire.

The other issue is lint gets past the dryer screen and gets caked on the inside of a dryer’s exhaust and flex tubes. Fabric softeners, dryer sheets, and anti-static products can make the problem even worse. The lint buildup reduces the performance and efficiency of your dryer–which means you’re paying more for it to work less effectively — and you’re increasing the risk of a lint fire. Do yourself and your family a big favor and use smooth, rigid metal ducting. Don’t connect it with screws because they poke through on the inside and catch lint.